Shared, commented on and diverted on social networks, these images tell the place of self-stylization in 2022.
Bella Hadid’s body turned into clothing at Coperni
The supermodel went from thong to dress in a jet during the Coperni show, September 30, 2022. Continuing the tradition of the show as a performance space, with a reference to that of Alexander McQueen for spring 1999, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant created the buzz by designing the dress live on the most popular model of the moment (56 million followers on Instagram).
26.51 million euros: this is the Media Impact Value (MIV) of this moment measured by Launchmetrics. Proof that the fashion show, articulating superstars and highlighting know-how, remains a timeless formula. It remains to be seen whether the dress molded to the body is a formula applicable to all.
The sex-positive sculpture of the Diesel show by Glenn Martens
Made of silver nylon and representing four intertwined bodies, the structure signed by the Dennis Vanderbroeck studio immediately entered the Guinness Book of Records. Unveiled during the second show of the Italian giant by Glenn Martens in September 2022, the erotic and inclusive symbol of sexpositivity and desire dispenses with long speeches.
Following the promise of democratic fashion defended by Martens, the structure is simultaneously visible to the 5,000 spectators (including 1,500 students who came to attend the XXL show) and the internet, which reposted the images of the Y2K looks. Total faded denim look, micro mini skirt and futuristic dress: Glenn Martens works on an ultra desirable wardrobe without forgetting to think about the political dimension of desire today.
Timothée Chalamet’s bare back at the Venice Film Festival
With his skin-tight scarlet jumpsuit revealing the back, Timothée Chalamet ignited social networks last September during the presentation of Bones and All at the Venice Film Festival. Designed by Haider Ackermann, who has dressed the actor on several occasions, the garment symbolizes a rejection of the bow-tie tuxedo uniform and affirms a masculine desire for fashion.
The halter-neck jumpsuit, unveiled in this codified and ultra-mediatized framework, makes it possible to question clothing conventions and their gendered construction. Timothée Chalamet continues to play on his visibility to offer a new male performance – failing to perfect the cannibal on screen.
Brad Pitt and his skirt on sale for Bullet Train
Brown linen set consisting of a jacket and a skirt, large golden jewels and thick rangers: Brad Pitt articulates a so-called feminine piece of clothing and codes of virility. A game that controversy forgets by focusing on a single element: the skirt. Worn by the 58-year-old blonde-haired actor, the piece is described as “cool”. Why ? The eternal young first of Hollywood, who marked the cinema with his prominent abs in Thelma and Louise three decades ago, returns a reassuring heteronormative image, sports an unchanged physique and plays with codes. A formal provocation which shows that the gender of the skirt remains a debate – just like the age or the sexuality of the wearer.
The revival of Indie Sleaze at the Palais de Tokyo by Hedi Slimane for Celine
Blue hair, fitted jacket, rocker boots: there was a late-night air during the Celine show closing Men’s Fashion Week in June. For his first physical show since the pandemic, Hedi Slimane revised his own rock vocabularydeveloped over two decades through his photographic work and his collections at Dior Homme.
The operation feeds and reinforces the Indie Sleaze wave, a nostalgic reinterpretation of 1970s rock that invaded the Internet during the 2010s. Think of Kate Moss and Pete Doherty in the mud of Glastonbury. Chaos restrained with flawless cuts resurfaces and seems to herald a new era in Y2K.
Jonathan Anderson’s all-green wardrobe for Loewe
Twenty days: this is the time required for the grass covering the trenches and sneakers of the Loewe Summer 2023 show to reach an optimal height. Produced in collaboration with bio designer Paula Ulargui Escalona, the collection unveiled in June aims to reconnect humans to nature through clothing.
If the collection is paradoxically Instagrammable, the cerebral Jonathan Anderson invites us to reflect on the relationship between humans and technology, and to think about natural time, contrary to the fast time of fashion and social media: “The idea is that over time the pieces merge with nature”, stated the press release.
Fashion in the face of the war in Ukraine
How to talk about fashion in the midst of war? This is the question that hit the entire industry in February 2022. As Paris Fashion Week opened, Russia had already invaded Ukraine. What to do: stop parades, stop frivolity? Among the first reactions, the Botter duo wrote the message “No War” in white pearl on the back of a jacket, Christelle Kocher saluted with a yellow and blue brooch and the Hungarian brand Nanushka closed its show to the sound of music. ukrainian anthem. Going a little further, the CEOs of Nanushka have announced that they will no longer enter into an agreement with Russian wholesale partners. As the war progressed, fashion had to take a stand. On March 4, luxury took a stand by withdrawing from the Russian market. Hermès got the ball rolling, followed by Chanel, LVMH, Kering and Richemont.
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s pink for Valentino
An all-pink fashion show: this is what the Italian artistic director is offering for his Winter 2023 collection. A dreamlike world that soon fuels the Barbiecore trend on the networks. Celebrating a parodic hyperfemininity, the pink trend of high-heeled dresses and platforms shows that femininity circulates.
Beyond genres and origins, pink is essential during the summer of 2022, so much so that the luxury brand Valentino, known for its red, formalizes its fuchsia under the name “Pink PP” in October thanks to a partnership with the color and trend specialist Pantone.
Rihanna revolutionizes maternity clothes
Neck surrounded by diamonds, fine lace dress revealing a thong but also a round belly: at the entrance to the Dior show, Rihanna associates her pregnancy with exercise in fashion without constraints. In a crop top festival, in a Balenciaga faux fur ensemble or a Miu Miu microskirt topped with rhinestones, the star exposes her curves instead of hiding them under loose clothing.
She thus carries a canonical vision of motherhood articulated by playing with chastity and does not hesitate to reveal her changing body over the weeks. “I hope we were able to redefine what is considered ‘decent’ for pregnant women“, she said. Successful bet.
The Y2K style of Maddy’s character in Euphoria
Discussed just as much for its violence as for its glittery make-up and Y2K looks, the teenage fable with its polished aesthetic by Sam Levinson has entered the heart of fashion trends, with accounts dedicated to the question on Instagram and TikTok. Launched in January 2022, season 2 averaged 16 million views per episode.
According to costume designer Heidi Bivens, the wardrobe is the extension of each character. Far from seeking the realism of teenage outfits, the latter assumes a dreamlike proposition. Black liner topped with rhinestones, ultra-long false nails and tight cut-out dress, Versace crop top and vintage vest with faux fur collar Blumarine: the looks of Maddy, interpreted by Alexa Demie, are among the most commented and sought after – +275% for Y2K glamorous dresses on the Vestiaire Collective e-commerce platform in January. Proof that the series remain a central trend vector.